This cemetery wasn’t on my list, but somewhere in the back of my mind I knew there was another monumental cemetery in the Veneto region, and I was right. I couldn’t afford the time or money to go to Ravenna this trip (for a non-cemetery visit), so I headed to Verona instead.The cemetery is located between the two train stations (Verona Porta Nuovo and Verona Porta Vescova), but it’s slightly closer to the latter, so I got off there and walked to the cemetery. I went through the first gate I came to, the flower sellers tipping me off. It opened into a large square that had a gallery/portico running along all four sides. However, only the west and north sides (if my internal compass is working correctly) had monuments in the porticos. The centre of the square was filled with newer graves, as well as war graves. I soon found out that there were two large squares located side-by-side, and that the second one had monuments around all four sides (as well as in the centre yard). Unfortunately I got there when it was high noon, sunny with nary a cloud in the sky, and hot, hot, hot. The porticos provided a lot of shade and most of the monuments were in shade too. The ones on the north (?) side had the problem with a very bright background, so I tried to expose for the monument and not the sky – we’ll see how that turns out!
Like Bologna, there were some nice individual monuments, but only a handful of more grandiose monuments like at Staglieno/Monumentale. What I found really interesting were the tombstones in the galleries – there were a lot more reliefs than I have seen elsewhere (although quite a few seemed repetitious – similar grieving angels and whatnot). And, of course, lots of photos of the deceased. I especially liked one that featured a man on his motorbike – clearly a prized possession.
Quality of Monuments: Good. A nice mix of statues and reliefs, as well as newer gravestones and war memorials. There are about 200 memorial tombs in the cemetery. Many are of a religious nature, or feature the deceased. While some are dusty, most of the monuments seemed well cared for.
Cemetery Grounds: Large, but not extensive. As mentioned, there are two large square porticos with monuments and statues in most of the corridors, while the cloistered areas have regular tombs (though many have reliefs). The centre squares inside each portico area tend to be filled with newer graves. There are large family tombs at the back of the cemetery.
Visitors: Few. There were some people there to pay their respects, and I think I ran across a couple who were there as tourists, but overall there were few people out and about. I did not see any front or ground staff while there.
Photographer Notes: A lot of light fills the galleries, and most of the monuments seemed to be in shade when I was there. However, I imagine it could get quite dark on a cloudy day.
Cemetery: Cimitero Monumentale di Verona
Location: Piazzale del Cimitero, 1, Verona. You can take bus 70 or 71 here, and the loop bus (A and B) run to Central Park, which is located in front of the cemetery. I walked from the Porta Vescovo station and it took about 30 minutes (I am a slow walker though).
Hours: I’m not sure, but I think it’s something like 8-18, possibly longer at both ends by an hour.